Day 19-21

Sometimes I wonder how I’ve managed to still be alive.  Not just alive, but to also have all my limbs in tact.

Yesterday a wild leopard came inches away from me. Then I followed it for 20 minutes. Later on I watched a wild elephant with giant tusks do his “you’re making me uncomfortable and I’m thinking about attacking you” dance.

Two days ago when I checked into my room at a lodge around the Kruger National Park, the grounds keeper told me not to walk around after dark because I am on a wildlife reserve and there aren’t any fences separating me from the wild animals. There was a lion roaming around a couple of weeks ago. Last month a security guard took his dinner to his room, fell asleep with the door open, a hyena came by to finish his dinner for him and went on to have him for desert. That’s comforting.

Last year, down in Gansbaai, I was told “sharks don’t eat humans, they prefer baby seals”. Without the thought even crossing my mind, I proceeded to don a black, head to toe wetsuit.  Hindsight is always 20/20 and in hindsight, with my barely 5 ft height, in the dark abyss of the ocean, I bare a striking resemblance to a baby seal.  

Then to really test the sharks, I jumped into a cage in the middle of the ocean while someone else threw fish blood and guts around me to try to attract the sharks towards me. All this just so I can come face to face with a 14 feet long great white shark.

Some may call it being adventurous. Some may call it having a death wish. I call it money well spent!

Money I’ve spent to learn a few survival skills, even though my instincts will tell me to do the complete opposite of those skills in times of need. Nature does tend to have a way of eliminating the weaker specie.

Here are some tips I've learned from experience on how to better avoid elimination:

When encountering sharks while swimming, don’t move.

If you run, a lion will chase you and eat you. If you bend down to tie your shoelaces, a lion will pounce on you and eat you. Walk tall and with a purpose and you can coexist with it.  It will either walk with you or walk away from you. 

A rhino doesn’t mind being followed just don’t get in between him and his food or him and his females. He’s built like a tank and will gladly plow down a human.

A leopard will rub his face on trees and grass to mark his territory. Stay out of his way.

Wild African male buffalos are always in a pissed off mood. Leave him alone.

When walking down a dirt road, the warthog has the right of way at all intersections.  He gets to cross the road first, always.

Don’t feed the baboons. Throw rocks at them.

When walking in the bush in Africa, wear long pants and sneakers.

At the end of the day, a piece of ostrich steak grilled medium rare can be much tastier than a beef filet mignon. Wildebeast is tough to chew and kudus taste much better when turned into biltong, air dried meat.

Next stop...Ghana. Stay tuned….

Day 18

Although I pretty much spend almost every waking moment eating food, talking about food, cooking food, buying food, and now writing about food, occasionally I do stumble upon a sobering moment and something else catches my attention.

Today was one of those days.  Today I woke up at 5am to walk with a group of five 2 years old lions by 7am.  At almost 2 years old, they already weigh over 200 lbs.

I'm in Polokwane, staying at the Protea Ranch, where there's a lion conservatory in the back yard. In the summer, it's best to get up early to go walking with them otherwise it gets too hot. I came to understand this halfway through our walk. I've walked with lions (different ones every time) in the winter and fall but this time as the morning progresses, and the heat started to rise, I can see the lions panting, slowing down, and laying down much more than usual.

No matter how many times I've walked with lions, each time is just as surreal as the last. It is absolutely surreal to have lions graze my legs as I'm walking. Absolutely surreal to have them nudge me a little with their head from behind as they're trying to pass by to get to each other.  Absolutely surreal to be standing there surrounded by a group of lions and not feeling any fear. Or standing right next to a lion, looking over a small pond and an open field together watching another lions disappear into the tall grass only to see it again as it jumps up to pounce on yet another lion. Watching them play and pounce and cuddling up to one another, it's hard to remember that they are LIONS. They were so cute I just wanted to jump in and play with them.

However, I am quickly reminded of their strength and power because although they are very quiet, when one comes up to you from behind, you definitely feel their presence.

I want a pet lion.

Onward to Kruger....stay tune...

Day 12-17

Cape Town has alway been my favorite city in S. Africa. Beautiful mountain ranges, clean, gorgeous beaches, perfect weather, and lots of natural wildlife around.

Every time I come to S. Africa, it's always been about the animals. I'm either going on safari, walking with lions, feeding giraffes, and/or swimming with sharks.  Although the previously mentioned activities might be a healthier option, this time it's all going to be about the food and wine.

5 days of eating and drinking in Cape Town has given me a whole new perspective on S. Africa.

First it was lobster. Then it was tiger prawns. The last three days were filled with wine tastings and fine dining restaurants. It's hard not to like this city!

My first wine adventure was about a 20 minute drive outside of the city center to the Groot (upper) Constantia vineyards. It is filled with lush greenery and old school English buggies and carriages that are painted an emerald green. The entrance was lined with massive oak trees. The buildings were original 17th century Dutch architecture. On a hot South African summer day, their cool, buttery chardonnay was perfect to help cool things down.

Being a foodie, I can't help but feel the best part of Constantia was their Italian restaurant, Constantia-Uitsig, where I feasted on kingklip and salmon carpaccio, seared foie gras with red wine poached pears, soft, chewy bread with a crisp and crunchy crust slathered with soft butter, and seared wildebeast with red wine and truffle sauce. Oh and I almost forgot the fresh made fettucini with tomato ragu of venison, lamb, and pork topped with fresh grated parmesan reggiano.  The finishing touch was vanilla affogato, dark espresso poured over scoops of vanilla ice cream.

I'm in Cape Town! Just one day of wine tasting would just be shameful.  So the next day it was off to Stellenbosch wine region with a stop over in Franschhoek for lunch. It's a little over an hour drive outside of Cape Town.  If you're looking for a French Hemmingway summer with a Dutch accent, this is the place to for you.

White buildings, tree lined streets filled with outdoor cafes of french bistros, and little boutique wine, cheese, chocolate shops is only the start of Stellenbosch.  From the moment we turned off the highway following the arrow that directed us to the town, there are vineyards after vineyards of wine makers to fill any wine connoisseurs' delight.

Right through Stellenbosch and up the mountain to Franschhoek. We arrived at a little cottage halfway up the mountain. Inside is a French restaurant called Le Petite Ferme (the little farm). I was told the restaurant fills up quickly and the best seats are outside. So I made reservations 3 days earlier just to sit outside. It was definitely worth the wait.

The table is outside on a stone tiled terrace. Above the table is a bunch of intertwining trees creating a canape to shield us from the sun. It also sits right in front of rows and rows of grape vines, overlooking beautiful mountain ranges, an open meadow, and a little lake. It made me want to set up at easel and start painting. It's quite unfortunate that my painting abilities are limited to stick figures.

Now the highlight of my day - lunch. For starters we had chicken liver pate with crisp baguette crostini and pork belly confit with dark berry preserve. Then a main course of lightly smoked trout with lemon dill baby potatoes. My colleagues had braised lamb with roasted eggplants and roasted quail stuffed with chorizo, cheese, and mediterranean vegetables, served with sweet pumpkin puree.  Of course I had a little bit of everything. Desert was a light pavlova (baked meringue) topped with fresh whipped cream and chilled summer fruit cocktail of mangoes, green apples, grapes, and passionfruit.

Washed down with a bottle of their house Shiraz and a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon, lunch took 2 hours.  With temperatures around 80 degrees Fahrenheit and a cool summer breeze blowing through, it was a great day!

Sadly, today is my last day in Cape Town. Me being me, I had to squeeze in just one more meal.  This time it was in a quaint place right in the heart of downtown in an old abandoned stone building. The restaurant is called the Savoy Cabbage.

For starters I had seared foie gras with sweet peach summer peach confit. Then the smoothest, lightest, airiest chicken liver mousse I have ever tasted. Spread on a thin slice of brioche crostini and topped with poached figs, if there wasn't a chance of it clogging up my arteries, I would like to start my day, everyday, with this dish.

After so many days of rich, delicious foods, I thought I'd go lean today and only ordered one entree with no desert after the starters. The entree is called the three little pigs - smoked pork shoulder, grilled pork loin, and braised pork belly. Yup, eating light. Every bite was tender where it needs to be tender, smokey where a bit of smokiness was called upon, and crispy at all the right places.

At the end of this meal is where a cup of peppermint tea to soothe the richness was definitely in order.

Off to Polokwane tonight. I love Cape Town.

Stay tune...

Day 11

I know I said I'd stay away from game but I'm in Africa. I just couldn't help it. Especially since the rest of the dish sounded so good. I had wildebeast for lunch today. Seared rare, it came with perfectly steamed baby potatoes, sauteed pine nuts and kale, and the best part, red wine sauce with truffle oil. The wildebeast itself didn't have much flavor and was very lean.  In fact, it hurt my jaw after a while from all the chewing, but with the sauce it was great!

I read some where that the secret to great blogging is to keep it short. I'm going to try it. However, those who know me, knows that I've got the gift of gab so let's see how long this will last.

Going to Franschhoek tomorrow for lunch then off to the Stellenbosch vineyards. Franschhoek is Dutch meaning French corner for the French Huguenots that settled there around 1685. Today it's known as the food and wine heartland of South Africa.

Stay tuned....

Day 10

In the last 2 days I learned two new things. Apple lapacho is my new favorite tea and rock lobster legs, the part that sticks out of the the head resembling whiskers, are the best part of the lobster when cooked right.

I discovered apple lapacho my last night in Johannesburg when I asked the server for a cup of decaf tea to help me sleep better. He suggested Five Roses (a popular brand of tea in S. Africa) peppermint tea. I agreed since I usually like a cup of peppermint tea after dinner to help with digestions.  A few minutes after taking my order he comes back to tell me that they are out of that brand but suggested a nice calming tea called apple lapacho.  His accent made it a bit difficult for me to make out what he was trying to say but I thought I'd be a bit adventurous and just trust him on it.  Great decision on my part!

When he brought the tea out I hardly paid any attention and continued to read my emails on my phone. Within a second of the tea streaming from the pot and hardly even having a chance to hit the cup, a sweet aroma grabs my nose and lifts my head up and away from my phone. It reminds me of when I bite into a crisp, sweet, juicy apple and my nose involuntarily grazes the inside of the apple, getting apple juice on the tip of my noise, then smelling that sweet flavor until I get a chance to wipe it off.

The best part was it tasted like green tea and had all the characteristics of a green tea - light and calming with a tiny bit of bitterness. Yet there was a sweet apple aftertaste that lingers on my taste buds long after I've drank the tea.

The server was right. I slept like a baby that night.

The next day I headed out to Cape Town and my first meal was at Panama Jack's.  It was in the middle of the industrial part of the harbor surrounded by a bunch of big fishing boats that are dry docked.  It also looks like a wooden shack.  Inside the ceiling was draped with all sorts of flags and the interior is how I would imagine the lower deck of an old wooden ship would resemble.

I ordered a west coast rock lobster, steamed. The fun part was I get to go catch the lobster in their tanks. It was the first time I got to see a lobster swim. I never really gave it any thought before but it was pretty neat. They tuck their tails in and darts off!

The lobster was steamed perfectly, but the best part were the legs. This was a rock lobster so it didn't have any claws and its legs are quite thin so I didn't think much of it.  My colleague told me that if I cracked the legs in half, I should be able to separate the shell and meat quite easily by just slowing pulling it apart. He was right! And the meat was sweet, juicy, tender and oh so delicious! Even better than the tail.

This is my third time in Cape Town, S. Africa. My previous trips here were all about the adventures - shark diving, chasing penguins, etc.  This time I'm going to make it about food.

Stay tuned....

Day 9

When ever I come to South Africa, the tourist in me always feels the need to eat game meat at least once before I leave. Game meat is not to be mistaken for bush meat, which is illegal and requires inhumane killing of endangered species.

Game meat refers to African game such as ostrich, springbok, kudu, etc. Springbok resembles a deer and kudu, in a long stretch can be considered beef. I've tried it many times and cooked in many ways but just like any other game, it can be a bit on the dry side.

Last night I had springbok carpaccio but passed on the kudu. It was nice but I think its only because it was sliced so thin.

I'm not a game meat fan in the states so I'm not sure why I always feel the need to have it when in Africa. So last night I decided that unless someone describes it to me as to how exactly it's going to be cooked or if its braised in red wine and finished off with aged black truffle oil, I think I'm going to start passing on it.

Today I had another popular faire in South Africa - kingklip fish. Popular because its only found in southern hemisphere waters. Although it can also be found in the southern countries in South America, it's very popular here in South Africa. I think it looks like an oversized tadpole or possibly a monkfish- big head, long thin body and tail.

Kingklip is a firm fish so it's very easy to over cook. In Johannesburg, it seems every where I go, the popular way to serve it is pan seared, then finished off in the oven, and doused in beurre blanc sauce (melted butter and white wine). Either it's the way people here prefer it or I've just been choosing the wrong restaurants but it's always so dry. It's got such potential because it does have a natural sweetness to it.  I think it would be much better dipped in beer batter and served as fish and chips or steamed with soy, julienned ginger and scallions like the Chinese do it.

Tomorrow, off to Cape Town. Being closer to the water, I'm hoping for some nice fish.

Stay tuned....